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Thread: Previously unloved SP3

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Western Australia
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    Default Previously unloved SP3 - Plenty of pics

    OK so this is going to be the thread where I'm going to show photos of the bike getting some love and getting it back to a respectable state. I'll also be asking lots of questions most likely, in order to work out what's right and what's not and how stuff should be.

    So today I started with the front wheel. Firstly I took the discs off the wheel. Allegedly recently repainted, all I can say is whoever painted the wheels needs to look for a now job because their preparation and painting is shithouse. The hub ( centre of the wheel where the bearings are ) has not been cleaned properly and their are little lumps of dust all over it under the paint. On the left hand side of the wheel the raised up bead that runs circumfrencially ( sp? ) around the middle of the rim ( the bit that is broken by the air valve ) hasn't been properly clean either as the paint ( powder coat I think ) hasn't stuck most of the way around. Lastly, again on the left hand side of the wheel, there is something in / on the paint where each spoke meets the rim. It wouldn't polish off either. Next I cleaned the discs centres ( the gold alloy part ) with a toothbrush and prepsol - years of brake dust washed off in great black waves. Then I cleaned all the disc bolts with said toothbrush and prepsol, and then reassembled the wheel and discs.



    Next was the front forks. They are leaking like the proverbial, so I wiped all the oil off them. The left hand slider has a couple of nicks in it that are proud and would chew out the seal in short order, so that'll have to be sorted out. I cleaned the fork bottoms with the toothbrush and prepsol ( basic tools which do a very good job on just about everything!! ) and surprisingly they didn't come up too badly. Fortunately the years of caked-on brake dust hasn't eaten into the anodised finish. I removed the front axle pinch bolts, axle, and the threaded sleeve which the axle screws in to. Oh dear, a previous owner sure did love buying bolts that are too long and cutting them down with a hacksaw, and then not bothering to clean up the cut end just wind them she'll be right. They should apply for a job at Tescos, I hear they're hiring BUTCHERS!!!!. So new axle pinch bolts are on the ever increasing list of bolts that need replacing for various reasons. Anyway, I digress. So that lot all got a good go with the toothbrush, as did the front fender bolts and washers. Then everything got put back in place loosely so as not to lose anything.

    While I had the axle out, I also cleaned the speedo drive after unscrewing the cable out of the back of it. That one got the brush and prepsol treatment too. It came up ok, but how the hell has someone previously managed to break off half of the plastic edge on it, and crack the plastic by where the cable screws into it?? A new / second hand one of those is now on the list too.

    Then I had a closer look at the forks. The speedo cable is routed around the front and outside of the left hand fork, and is cable tied to the speedo cable at one point. Just below where it is cable tied, the outer sheathing is worn through and knackery for about 1 inch along the cable. Is the cable supposed to go that way, or in-between the forks and behind the lefthand fork?? Seems like it would be a lot less likely to be pulled when turning the bars right that way. Anyway, the left hand fork has a big flat on it, and an accompanying deeper gouge in up up closer to the bottom triple clamp. How the hell does that happen??



    Both forks are also gouged to hell higher up where someone has very hamfistedly removed the clip-ons previously, and the lower part of both are stone chipped to hell. Does anyone know anyone who can repair these? really they need all the gouges and chips filled and machined back, then the tubes re-annodised, then new seals.

    Continued in next post because to pic limit.
    Last edited by Jafa; 05-22-2013 at 05:21 AM. Reason: Pics keep dissappearing
    Quote Originally Posted by got2dv8 View Post

    Just hurry up and finish tearing her apart so you stop finding broken bits.
    SP3 #132
    1992 900 SS

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Default

    I gave up on the front end for today after that. The other day when I took the fairings off, there were 3 wires going to each front indicator. 2 look like they're supposed to be there, but have generic parts store crimp logs on them, ( where can I get the correct lugs and those neat little black plastic covers from?? ). The 3rd wire from each front indicator is taped to the other wires every so often, and go back to a push / pull knob the is on the panel just in front of the tank. Anyone know what this does??





    Then I had a look at the tank. The two screws holding it at the front are wing bolts - you guessed it, they've seen the hacksaw too!!!! Some people shouldn't be allowed fine machinery, they should be banished to public transport and emptying rubbish bins!!!! Anyway the tank came off, and this is what I see:



    Should there be a lid for the air box?? It only has a small frame ( like you can buy for carby 900SS ) holding the filter. Also are the ram air tubes just supposed to be floating around in there??? Doesn't seem right to me.

    Now on the tank ( pic below ), what should be on the 2 spare hose barbs on the bottom of the tank there - overflow pipes? And where should they be routed?



    I put the tank back on and wheeled the bike outside, and tried to put the PC680 battery out of my 900SS into it to see if it would start. First problem, the battery doesn't fit. It is too deep, so it won't sit in the battery tray because it fouls on the small lip at the front of the tray. I was starting to get hacked off with everything at this point so I just sat the battery on the lip and put the top holding plate in to hold it. Then put the leads on and put the key in. Turned the key, a relay at the back of the bike clicked, but no fuel pump running. Each time you turn the engine run / stop switch on the right hand switch block the relay clicks, but still no fuel pump. Headlight works, horn tried to work, but no fuel pump.

    Continued in next post because of pic limit
    Last edited by Jafa; 05-22-2013 at 05:24 AM. Reason: Pics keep disappearing
    Quote Originally Posted by got2dv8 View Post

    Just hurry up and finish tearing her apart so you stop finding broken bits.
    SP3 #132
    1992 900 SS

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Western Australia
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    What is the brown wire going from the frame on the left hand side of the battery, right across the battery to the +ve post on the battery for??



    So that was it for today. While it was outside I looked at it from the back. The right hand muffler is a fair bit ( pretty obvious, not mm's ) closer to the bike than the left hand muffler, because Bob the Butcher dropped the bike once upon a time. Hopefully it's just the hanger bent, but it's another thing to have to sort out later.

    Andrew.
    Last edited by Jafa; 05-22-2013 at 05:26 AM. Reason: Pics keep disappearing
    Quote Originally Posted by got2dv8 View Post

    Just hurry up and finish tearing her apart so you stop finding broken bits.
    SP3 #132
    1992 900 SS

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    UK
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    Default

    The positive terminal should not be grounded to the frame!

    With regards to the air filter, that looks correct as does the way that the pipes feed the air to that area.

    SP2 tanks are different so I cannot help on the two additional spouts on the tank and I cannot remember exactly how mine is there now.

    What is that 'pull' thing poking out of the regulator cover...never seen that before?

  5. #5
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    Jan 2009
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    Scotland
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    Hi

    Peter, I think thats an insulated post so another positive battery lead can be connected without removing the fairing.

    Scott

  6. #6
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    Default Tank overflow hoses

    Hi Andrew

    Re the overflow pipes under the tank Iam sure this is the drain for the fuel cap surround which passes through the tank you need to route these down below the crankcases from memory at work at the moment, cheers.

    Scott

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Scotland
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    Default Airbox

    Hi

    Does the underneath of the tank not act as the lid of the airbox, and the air tubes just sit in the cut outs on the underside rear of the tank, again from memory.

    Scott

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Northampton, England
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    Hi Andrew,

    IMO you haven taken delivery of the last great roadbike Ducati made. Hang in there it will be worth your time in the long run... Made in Italy have a very good reputation in the UK and don't sell rubbish... I'm surprised by the situation but everything you have shown so far can be fixed!

    My observations given the pics you have posted:

    1. Air tubes should be secured to metal frame securing the air filter using small cable ties
    2. Indicator bulb housing is non original - part should be the same as your 900ss.
    3. Non return valve under tank has been modded with 90degree bend. Two connectors are for overflow and should have a 2 - 1 rubber hose fitted. This part tends to perrish and is difficult to dind new. I've used std fuel hose and y connector from 916 fuel tank overflow on my SP3.
    4. Fork tube rub is very common on these bikes. When I got my SP3 it had covered less than 3k miles yet the tube had been gauged like yours by the spedo cable. I use plastic tape and cable tie the speedo to the brake hose to prevent rub without further problem.
    5. Exhaust alignment - they all do that sir! my bikes have never been dropped but one can sticks out 5mm more so than the other, can be adjusted out but I just accept that's how they were made.
    6. Period bolts are quite easy to find, any period 900, 750 or 600SS being broken is your best option
    7. Looks like someone didn't mask the wheel face were the discs bolt too. If you havn't already i'd remove the paint. Not essential but should be metal on metal.
    8. Well nuts - I tend to remove bodywork every couple of years and give the bike a good clean. I'm always replacing well nuts as they don't last long. Good news is they are cheap to buy, just replace the whole lot and keep plenty of spares.
    9. DO NOT try and start the bike until you are sure those belts have been replaced. If in doubt change them....
    10. Followed by Oil & Filter, Fuel, Fuel filter, Air filter, Clean plastic engine filter & valve check.
    11. IMO you can't run these bikes on the cheap, sooner or later you'll hit a problem and regret it. You seem to have an eye for detail so I'm sure you can get her round with a bit of TLC.
    Those tyres would have set my alarm bells ringing, I tend to be very suspicious of anyone that runs a Duc on budget tyres, soon as she's up and running and bedded in put some decent tyres on. Difference is night and day...

    All the best
    Andy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    bakersville, NC
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    2,926

    Default

    I know very little about the SP models but if anything like a Strada there would have been a plastic airbox lid/cover with two inputs for those two hoses. Again, if the same as a Strada, someone has removed theat lid and purchased a metal frame to hold the filter down (very typical mod).

    Those brake disc carriers look like they're worn pretty much. Probably not a problem but they will rattle a lot.

    I too would be somewhat disappointed If I paid a premium price for a supposed pristine SP but all of the above can be fixed without too much trouble. There's no excuse for the hacksaw butcher job on the bolts!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Marlborough UK
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    Default

    Good man getting stuck in so quick! A lot of the rest of the bike actually looks ok for year. frame , engine had good original patina by the looks of it. Will follow with interest!

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