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Thread: SP4 Rebuild

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    280

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tubbylad View Post
    Don't think we'll be having any cooling problems.
    Quality exudes throughout.
    that Radiator, look excellent. Where did you get it made? Was it Docking Engineering as per the tape?
    Torque is NOT cheap!

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northamptonshire
    Posts
    126

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    Yes, Docking at Silverstone. Stuart is the production manager there.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northamptonshire
    Posts
    126

    Default Tank clean out

    Thanks to the joys of chemistry the inside of the tank looks soooooo much cleaner.

    Soda crystals create the electrolyte and the power supply I used for replating fasteners provides the power.

    It took 3 rinses as the electrolyte was heavily contaminated and about 3 hours in total after which you can see the scars of rust.

    Areas of concern were the recess under the petrol pump and bottom of the right hand side of the tank (as you look at the front of the bike)
    Seems like the right hand side is the lowest point in my tank and if the bike has been on the side stand for anytime it makes sense any water has settled there.

    Apart from a little flash rust I'm happy with the outcome.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by tubbylad; 03-07-2021 at 01:27 PM.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northamptonshire
    Posts
    126

    Default Fuel pump preparations

    As part of making the tank ready it's time to look at a new pump - why.....

    Made the mistake of trying to pull the old pump out by the outlet connector pipe - which duly departed from the body!!!

    When removing the old Walbro pump I couldn't get it out of the rubber isolator that holds it in the tank so had to cut up the rubber mount to get it out.

    You can see the old pump integrated filter gauze caught some debris and the body was showing signs of corrosion.

    New pump is from ebay rated at 255L/h for a Mazda MX5. Fits in the new (expensive!!) rubber holder from Ducati perfectly.

    Would ask others that may have made such a switch as to which filter to use on the pump inlet - original Ducati or the flat one that came with the pump?

    Only other to do was fitting the new pump connector block to the existing float level sensor which was just spades onto the old pump body. Copper coloured wire is positive.
    Used extrator tool to remove the flying leads from the connector block and ordered new spade connectors with retaining tab to crimp on the original wiring.

    Checked the through tank connection which looks OK though a quick check of resistance shows 0.2 Ohms from loom connector through to pump connector which seems fine.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by tubbylad; 03-15-2021 at 07:00 AM.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Wales
    Posts
    60

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    Really enjoying the build, between you and Chris ours are all going to look well used 😢

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bris Vegas
    Posts
    3,673

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    Pump filter, which ever one doesnít contact the tank. Donít for get to solder spade crimps, reduces chance of failing.
    Griff
    To infinity and.......

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northamptonshire
    Posts
    126

    Default Engine Cases Build

    So, finally the exciting bit starts.

    Build courtesy of Dave Allenby "Desmo Dave"

    https://www.facebook.com/racingengineservices

    Cases vapour blasted by JHP Coventry and all bearings fitted.

    https://ducaticoventry.com/

    With the exception of mains, all other bearings from Simply Bearings

    https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/?g...SAAEgK1ZfD_BwE

    Crank balanced by "Bill the Balancer" no website I'm aftraid but again local in Leicestershire
    New blanking plug and screws for the crank.

    Rod small ends from Carrillo (as Pankl don't offer them and NLA from Ducati) via Performance Unlimited. Carrillo part number BSH-SB-940x760x1000 (imperial sizes)
    My 2 Pankl Steel H Section Rods have bush housing diameters measured at 23.025 / 23.012mm respectively and each rod is 21.6mm wide. The Carrillo bush is 23.876mm (0.940") OD

    www.performanceunlimited.co.uk

    As they are oversize on OD and undersize on bore so I had a bit of work to do making a taper mandrel and turning to length, rough boring ID's then grinding the OD's down (Carrillo recommend 0.0020" interference on rod housing bore)

    Fitted in the rods by Dave and then Automotive Services bored them perpendicular to the big ends before sizing them to the gudgeon pins according to the "one finger push" tolerance

    https://www.automotive-services.co.uk/

    All bolts are new and replated zinc and yellow.

    Shifter arm is new from JHP as the pawl was showing signs of wear.
    Last edited by tubbylad; 04-14-2021 at 06:09 PM.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    106

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    Vapour blasted parts are honestly the most satisfying things to look at

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northamptonshire
    Posts
    126

    Default

    Gauge Refurbishment

    Whilst awaiting the engine build there are a couple more little jobs to be getting on with.....

    Like many, my dial needles had faded almost to white so I set about opening them up and repainting them.

    Interestingy I found an image of the OEM tool used by Smiths when making this type of instrument with rolled bezel to retain the covers. I also researched Smith bezels available from the internet but they are just that little bit too small.

    Being a bit more "heath robinson" in my approach I came up with a solution to compress the rubber gasket between glass face and outer can so I could lever up the rolled bezel. I also used two clamps to pull together two semi circles cut out of MDF and clamp the OD to prevent it from deforming as the rolled edge was levered up.

    Once the edge was up the bezel was removed and the rubber gasket, glass and instrument surround could be separated. Worth noting the glass is antireflective on one side to prevent glare - I put this to the outside of the dial.

    Once opened up you need to remove a couple screws from the back of the case and the instrument falls out.

    Needle was removed with a fork by gently rotating upward - it is tight on the spindle and I was afraid of breaking things but it all let go and came off no trouble.

    Used a liquid mask to cover the black centre of the needle and scraped off the old paint with a knife blade. Once primed I used the modellers paint from AK called Luminous Orange AK2171 diluted with a little AK thinners and airbrushed on.

    Assembly is the reverse of disassembly only this time endges are rolled back over in the jig. In reality they are gently tapped down using a hard wood dowel and hammerjust going aroound and aorund until the edge is flat.

    Bezels were rubbed down with scotchbrite and treated to a little zinc primmer prior to assembly. Only the temp gauge showed signs of corrosion on the back face where the gasket sits.

    Bit of masking and rattle can of satin black sees them back to factory fresh.

    You will see ripples in the OD of the temperature gauge as it looks like the MDF semi circles weren't quite the right size and the OD deformed on assembly.
    Fortuntaley those ripples get lost in the foam when assembled so it'll all look alright once in the dash.

    (For those who noticed - disassembly example was with a dial that had already been apart once and gone through the process of reassembly. I will use a new 0 mile MPH clock instead of the original KM dial which will be kept for traceability)

    All in all I'm pleased and happy to have saved the £500 per instrument a specailist wanted to charge me for the pleasure of returning my needles to the right colour.
    Attached Images

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northamptonshire
    Posts
    126

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    Suspension Rocker and Hoop Rebuild

    A liitle more progress on the sub assemblies.

    Hoop is Signal Yellow courtesy of ..

    https://www.cfsbrixworth.co.uk/

    Rod ends are OEM M10x1mm, lock nuts are new replated zinc and black.

    All needle bearings have been replaced courtesy of Simply Bearings

    https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/?g...SAAEgL2_vD_BwE

    Bearing sleeves are new, made by me at a local friends tool making shop from EN24 through hardened and ground.

    Bolts are original replated zince and yellow.
    Attached Images

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